Sunday, January 31, 2016

Mature Fashion: The role of Make-up

Greetings, Stylinistas;


A fashion stylinista has to consider the whole package when putting together a complete look for herself or soneone else.  That means the garments she wear, the hair style she chooses, and the desired cosmetic application.  Rocking cosmetics all about make-up application that rocks her role and physical features.

The first and most important consideration is the appearance of great skin.  We need to look the part; to accomplish this it is necessary to juggle the appropriate amounts of moisturizers, primers, highlighters, foundation, blushes, concealers, color correction products, etc. and maybe etc, to give the appearance of flawless and glowing skin.  This look is usually associated with both youth and good health. To do so, our skin  needs to be silky smooth with even color, and radiate a dewey appearance. This usually needs to be enhanced by a flattering blush of color in the cheek area.  A little color adds to the illusion of healthy skin. (Matte finishes usually make me look like mortar or thick plaster board ) 

The second facial area of importance is the framing of the face itself.  Both hair and eyebrows lose definition with age.  A flattering haircut in a flattering color frame and provide luminosity to the face itself.  It is important to give a definite shape to eyebrows that  may have become thin and sparse or more coarse and uncontrolled.

Another facial area of importance is the area of the eyes; the appearance of dull, tired eyes do not present the most flattering attribute to any role of a mature woman  One of the first sentences in flatteringly describing an older woman (or man, for that matter) is the brightness and focus of their eyes.  In my opinion, this area is also the most controversial by
cosmetoligists.  There are widely varying opinions as to what is most flattering for "mature women" ranging from wearing no eye make-up to bold use of cosmetics (one of the most controversial is eye liner followed by colored eye shadow)All, do agree, that bright eyes give a fresh and youthful appearance.

The mouth also becomes a problem area for many older women.  Lips usually become thinner, and lose color and are often surrounded by fine lines and wrinkles.  Appropriate lining, plumping, and applying flattering color is a must for a mature woman who wants to make the most of her assets.


Friday, January 29, 2016

Mature Fashion: The Career Role



SALES ROLE AT AMERICAN LEISURE PATIO
                                                                      Greetings, Stylinistas;


Other significant events that require complete re-thinking of a woman's wardrobe aside from a substantial weight loss is entering or re-entering the work force.  Young women who are entering employment for the first time or women who are returning to the work force may have to re-think the garments they need to add to their wardrobe.  Woman who have had a partner for many years and are now single may also be facing a career change, and others may be pursuing a change in career goals. Some of these women may have been actively engaged in volunteer work that allowed them to have a multi-functional wardrobe, but the majority of both the first-timer and the more mature stay at home has a lot of jeans, tees, and sport shoes in her closets, and need to critically assess new "costume" requirements.

In each of these examples the quickest and most convenient approach is to use the capsule approach blended with the "uniform" approach made notable by such public figures as Hillary Clinton. (check out her photos; although she is not a 'style icon', and has been referred in public as one of the most badly dressed women in the public eye, she has publicly stated that her wardrobe "works very well for her, thank you very much."  and it does. Hers is just a different "'uniform". 

One can instantly recall her many matching pantsuits, suits, and general use of an 18" (give or take) necklace, minimal make-up and no nonsense hair-do. Her dress says it all. I have been watching the costume changes almost every day on AOL, etc.) because of her campaign and obvious changes the style she is presenting; generally the same "uniform" but colors that are a bit more flattering, necklaces that are conservative, but more modern, etc.  Check it out. The famous "Men in Black" of the FBI is another such example.

Uniforms work; HR departments and employers love them; minimal company dress code, safety considerations,  or good taste violations are avoided and predictably lower the playing field of fashion competition because these uniforms are universally unflattering in cut, color, fit, or personal vanity (come on, how many women look their best in Home Depot orange, that glaring shade of royalish blue used by many employers, or fed-ex brown!!)  I hate them, but to be fair, they do serve useful purposes.  The rules for wearing conventional uniforms are minimal and leave little room for errors in judgement by the employees.

The subtle uniform of professional dressing is much more subtle and varies widely, but it, too, has some hard and fast rules depending upon the work venue.  In any venue, for an important meeting or presentation, a skirt (or coordinated tailored pants), blouse, jacket, and dress shoes ) Simple up-to-date hair styles, subtle up-t-date make-up, and neat, clean nails fairly short nails are a must. Jewelry should be discreet and heels should be low to medium (basic rule of thumb, no more than 3 inches high and with a closed toe.  Needless to say, flip-flops, revealing and too tight clothing, controversial logos, and excessive use of perfume are not acceptable. It is a fact that all employment has a dress code; but, it is often unspoken and a wise woman knows how to use those rules.

Depending upon  the work venue, jeans and tees are acceptable in certain fields, as are bare legs providing the feet are well pedicured. When wearing this type of garment, it is important to take extra care in choosing.  Slogans of any kind may be offensive to some, and the condition must be pristine.  Unless you are a top Rock singer on The Voice and your job is in the recording studio, it is not advisable to wear light wash torn jeans.  The clue is to take the tone of the upper management and respecting that tone in one's dress code.   When in doubt choosing the conservative approach is probably best.  

Fashion and the arts have their own rules but if one observes carefully, they, too, have their own uniform; only the artwork is different.  Certain other fields of more casual work (outdoor types, etc.) have a more relaxed dress code, but the wise woman will always dress just a bit better than the norm.  No, not a suit and tie in a landscaping department, but cotton gabardine is more professional than jeans, loafers rather than tennis shoes, etc. In all jobs, taking note of what upper management wears is a good clue as to the tone of work attire that is most acceptable to the person(s) who control the paycheck.  This is not to say cloning attire; but taking note of obvious preferences for type of clothing worn by upper management. (remember Working Girl)?. It also does not mean looking dated, frumpy, or stereotyped.  There is nothing in this unwritten uniform that prevents one from finding fashion elements that are totally up to date and work with this uniform;  it does mean editing what is appropriate for your work role. One last note; if wearing casual clothing, no matter the occasion, it must be in top condition and fit very well.  Sloppy dressing in never acceptable in a work environment and sends a psychological message that you really are not into the job. (NO, asking the boss if it is "alright to wear this" does not accomplish your goal; we are talking about subliminal messages!!.) 

Basically, creating a uniform of your very own for work, it should present the image you are dressing to do a certain job, are serious about your work, and intelligent enough to know what is appropriate for your venue.

The concept of uniforms really applies to all the roles we choose for our lifestyle; the appropriate uniform for one role (volunteer at a dog shelter) is not the same as the uniform for a charity luncheon, etc., etc., however, the career role may carry more weight on how it affects our lifestyle.

................Geneva...................Rockmyages@aol.com 


Monday, January 25, 2016

Mature Fashion: The Art of Successful Thrifting

Leather cap and studded "grunge" shirt from thrift shops
Hello Stylinistas;

Our last post concerned wardrobe acquisition of clothing suitable  to our lifestyle roles;  today's post is dedicated to that second step, thrift shops. (the first is shopping your own closet).  I have ignored garage sales because there are very few in my area at all, but most of the same rules could apply to those of thrift stores.

The art of successful thrifting was introduced to me by a friend of over 30 years.  I did not know until about eight years ago that she has a black belt in shopping garage sales, thrift stores, antique shops, and consignment boutiques!! In these last  eight or so years that she has been my advisor I have accumulated a wardrobe filled with high quality material in haute couture designer clothing.  To this day, she is still my favored shopping partner when I want to make certain I am not "buying a pig in a poke" and stay within my shopping budget.  I am passing on to you what I have learned from her, and a few grains that I have learned on my own.

The first lesson I have learned is to dress appropriately. Our favored shopping uniform is a comfortable pair of shoes worn with both socks and nylons, a tightly fitting top and rather skin tight pants, and no jewelry. We do this because there is almost always too few dressing rooms (with tight tops and pants, you can slip the garment over your clothing to determine the fit, or at least know if you need to wait for a dressing room).  We wear nylons and socks to try on with all types of shoes and no jewelry for fear of losing it. (early on I unfastened a bracelet while attempting to try on a sweater, before I could retrieve it from just under the dressing room door, it disappeared-I also lost a pair of gold earrings unbeknownst to me until I left the store).

We also save our items to be donated in our car .  Many shops give you a discount if you contribute to the store. (Savers, etc.) Of course, we take advantage of special sales when possible.  We do not, however, shop regularly on senior day or certain sales. We prefer to go as late as possible the day before senior day or the sale because we prefer the selection of merchandise rather than the rather small discount of senior day. (the selection of merchandise is greater because many seniors do wait until senior day, and inventory is at its highest the day before).  Certain sales are 50% off and on these days we make sure we shop early in the day to avoid the crowds, etc.

One of the reasons you can often find a treasure at a thrift shop is simple ignorance of things a more mature woman knows; I bought a silver buckled Michael Kors belt at a thrift shop for three dollars because of black marks on the buckle.  Obviously, the donor did not realize the belt would be as good as new with just a touch of silver polish; I have had the same experience with a Ralph Lauren purse($8.00) and a Brighton purse ($15.00 different metal but the principle is the same.) Designer garments that need very minor repairs can often be remedied for a few dollars or simply hand-washing or other home remedies.  (I found a very good cashmere sweater of the highest quality with a tea stain on front; I used walnut dye and still have a gorgeous golden brown sweater I have had about five years (I love my little treasures).  

I have found a Hermes scarf (real, not a knock-off), Christian Dior, Diane Von Furstenberg knit dress, Ungaro sweater, Escada pants, Armani jeans, Laurel Burch "birds eye" silk scarf, St. John knits, Burberry sweaters, etc. etc.,etc., all that work with everyday purchases I make to my core capsules and fashion season closet capsules, all for a fraction of what I used to spend on clothing and accessories.  You, do, however need to remember that many of the knock-off or designer replicas end up in thrift stores.  A lttle research and product knowledge can help you avoid disappointment.  My friend and I regularly window shop the high end women's departments in Neiman Marcus, Bloomingdales, Barney's, Saks, and designer boutiques to become familiar with "the real thing". (once in a very great while, we actually buy something there, but very seldom because the thrill of the hunt exists in finding the item for much, much less at consignment or thrift stores). We  also find regularly the ready to wear pieces found in all major department stores Of course, I also find some wonderful hand made unique garments that I can mix with my Wal-Mart or Tar-jay (Target) little tees and inexpensive trendy new items that I cannot find in the thrift shops.

A wise woman does need to keep a sharp eye on the merchandise she does select in a thrift store. ( We will discuss consignment stores later).  One of my early mistakes was not checking the garment over very carefully.  As my gal pal pointed out you cannot exchange as readily, if at all.(many require an exchange only at the store where purchased)  Usually, there is no refund at all, exchange only, if that option is offered at all. Many times defects are somewhat hidden and the stores are dimly lighted (?) so detection is sometimes difficult. It is also important to remember that the merchandise was donated for a reason; I have made several mistakes on buying shoes; the inside of shoes are often man made materials that break down over time.  Shoes that have barely been worn, if at all, may still be unwearable because that breakdown of material will be all over your stockings and feet when worn. It is wise to examine the shoe carefully and walk around the store in the shoe before purchasing it. (I always sanitize the inside of the shoe after purchase and wash the socks or nylons before wearing another shoe (another reason for wearing both nylons and socks when shopping); sometimes we keep more than one pair of each on hand to prevent transfer of any potential health concerns).  Maybe that is overkill, but better safe than sorry.  As my friend always reminds me, thrift shopping by definition is buyer beware.

A "bargainista" must also know her merchandise; often the price quoted for certain garments is more expensive than purchasing a same quality garment new at bargain retail stores.  For example, I regularly view Target and Walmart tees, etc., for more than I paid for the same (same brand name and product line).  The fault lies in pricing personnel who do not know the products or the relative value of individual items; case in point, a "new" Guess purse will be priced the same as a "new" Ralph Lauren.  The personnel price a bit by guess and a list in the back room.  

Prices for like items also vary greatly from location to location.  At a Goodwill Store I may pay an average of $9.00 for a name brand shoe such as Madden or Simpson but at a store a mile or two away, I may have to pay $18.00 for the same condition and brand.  My friends and I know which stores are more pricey for certain items and shop accordingly.

One of the greatest dangers for me is to firmly keep my mind on the amount I am spending on garments.  Often there are too many garments that are "bargains" but really do not significantly add to my overall closet strategy.  I am trying to make sure that any garment I buy replaces something I have or is a planned addition to a capsule.  Most of my shopping is limited to searching for "trend" garments to replace last season's "trend" garments or an upgrade or addition to a core garment.  I am big on the concept of having all "core" garments of the highest quality and replacing "fashion trend" items.

One last thought on thrift stores; it is important to shop regularly at the shops.  I go once a week, usually on Monday nights because Tuesday is senior day here.  If you have many of them in your area it is important to know the policy or management style of each because there is a lot of variance between them as I mentioned earlier.  I actually have the good fortune to have nine in close proximity.  I only regularly shop the one because I have neither the time or desire to shop, shop, shop.  I find it takes almost an hour to really check out the merchandise properly.  Most treasures do take a bit of digging and I love beautiful clothing. There are too many good deals most of the time and it does require self discipline, although they are becoming more scarce as on-line thrifting is causing a scarcity of the treasures in the stores. It is also important to remember that most of the items are not what you want; you do have to kiss a lot of frogs before you find the prince.  One also has to remember the merchandise is not pristine; many times it is really unwearable and not up to ones standards, but the treasures are most often there. 

I wish I could say I am there yet, but I am not. I still find from time to time I have surplus garments because I have bought too many treasures and bargains or I have changed the focus of my closet collection.  I am working on this aspect of wardrobe management. One of the reasons I have started the blogs is to serve as an on line journal of orderly wardrobe and role management. (The blogs keep me in line of "practicing what I preach".)

Consignment stores are a step up the ladder of thrift shopping. Merchandise is almost always designer or high end fashion store name brand items.  The stores usually "vet" the seller of goods and the merchandise must be well cared for and in good condition when submitted to the store.  You can purchase Jimmy Choo and Manolo Blhanik (sp) shoes, Prada purses, Hermes scarfs, etc., for a fraction of retail but much more than if you were able to find it in the thrift shops; FYI, many consignment shops and on-line sellers seek out designer items etc. in the thrift shops.  (I have observed this firsthand). 

Vintage items that are really works of couture art can be obtained at antique shops, usually at consignment prices rather than thrift shop, but are still wonderful buys for the imaginative stylinista. (I have seen Worth gowns). For an example, I urge my readers to view www.Stylecrone.com for an example of truly creative and glamorous use of vintage fashion.  I do love her site.

I hope I have given you information you can use to improve your own wardrobe.  Because I practice diligent thrift shopping, I am able to afford to remain a fashionista within the budget of a retiree in one of the most expensive living areas in the country. 

Good luck in your searches; I certainly plan to continue mine.  At this time I am on the search for just the right navy blue leather jacket, high vamp leather mid heel pumps, hunter green leather pumps in a mid or kitten heel, and  a leather purse in just the right shade of purple.

................Geneva................Rockmyages@aol.com







Saturday, January 23, 2016

Mature Fashion: Face Shapes

Face shapes (blurred, sorry)
Hello Fashionistas and Stylinistas;

In the fashion world, effectively styling for a runway or fashion shoot includes choosing he right costume, the right hairstyle to compliment the look, and the right make-up application Like body types, the shape of the face determines to a great extent the style of hair  and make-up that is chosen.  Depending upon the source,  face shapes as identified by most cosmetician  forums, classes, etc. recognize 8 different face shapes.  As in our discussions on body type, each woman is individual, and the usual recommendations may or may not apply to her. Sometimes it is more stylish just to follow your own instincts  if you feel you look great. (case in point: a mature very heavy but short woman with a round face who looks absolutely adorable and chic with her very pixie haircut; a haircut not recommended for a round face)

Oval: (1) The length of the face is about 1 1/2 times the width of the face and is narrower than the width at peak if forehead and at chin.  The width of both the top of the forehead and the chin area should be about equal. An oval face is equivilent to an hour glass body type; a woman who has this shape of face can usually wear almost any style she chooses.  The sleek pulled back hair styles that are the current rage are ideal to showcase the lovely oval shape. 

Diamond: (2) A diamond shape is an oval with sharper more well defined cheek bones; she, too, can wear almost anything providing she takes into account the defined angles, which can obviously be very different from woman to woman depending upon the placement of the angles.  For example, a woman with very high, sharply defined cheekbones needs to consider the advisability of wearing bangs which may not flatter the placement of the features on her face.

Heart: (5) wider at forhead and cheeks and gently narrow at jaw line.  Chin length hair styles are usually the most flattering; think Reese Witherspoon, etc.

Rectangles and Oblongs (3 & 4)  are both face types where the length of the face is greater than 1 1/2 times the width; the difference is the jawline on a rectange is square and an oblong is gently rounded to a point at the chin.  Women with either of these face shapes usually look their best in bob type hairshapes and long, sleek hairstyles are the least flattering to the face. Because both of these shapes have a longer face, most recommended haircuts suggest adding width and body to the sides of the face.  Bangs are usually a good bet, side parts are recommended and center parts are discouraged as they give an even longer illusion to the face

Triangle: (6) also called a spade by those who classify face shape using playing card images and is called a pear by those who use botanical terms) This shape is the opposite of a heart shaped face; the face is wider at the chin than at the forehead and the cheeks are about the same width as the jaw. Usually, the most flattering styles are those that are short and full above the cheek bones. This face shape is often called a "lantern" jaw.

Round:  (7) This shape of face is self explanatory; the dimensions the width, and length of the face are about equal.  Cheek bones, chin, and forehead are all gently rounded, as opposed to a square where the bones are often sharply angled.  Women with a round face usually have the most flattering styles when the hair is somewhat sleek to the sides and the top of the hair has a bit of height.

Square: (8)  As expected, that shape refers to a face where the width of the forehead, jawline, and cheekbones are approximately equal. If the bones of the face are angular, "A" line shapes that have a shorter back and longer sides are the usual recommendations; the angles of the face usually predict the most successful styles and shapes and will vary greatly from woman to woman depending upon the thickness and angles of the cheekbones and chin. 

Absolutely nothing can change the image of a woman quicker than a dramatic change of haircut that compliments her face shape, especially if carefully paired with a flattering color to her skin tone. In the upper left hand corner, I have made an attempt to roughly draw different face shapes.  (I would love to have actual faces of people, but I only have one face shape!)  The proportions are not accurate on the pictures because of my lack of skill in drawing and photography, but the shape is accurate. I started to draw styles around the images, but left only a smudge, because I thought some of you readers might want to try an experiment.  If you want to test out the difference the shape of a hairstyle can make, copy the pictures and draw diffferent styles around the face.  You might be surprised...

Have a great day.........Geneva............Ropckmyages@aol.com

Saturday, January 16, 2016

Mature Fashion: Choosing the Wardrobe

Look what I found.....

Welcome all Stylinistas;

In previous posts we have discussed defining and quantifying the types of garments a woman needs for the various roles in her life.
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Today's post is all about the actual selecting and choosing the core items for a working wardrobe that suit our roles and flatter our physical person and expresses our authentic personal style. (that's a mouthful!).

Extreme wardrobe changes usually happen when a significant life event occurs or the closet becomes so cluttered with " good buy sale items" that it becomes so fragmented a woman has a closet of clothes but nothing to wear because the items are not coordinated.
The significant life events usually are when  a young woman is beginning a career or when older and she is re-entering the job market.  Another significant event is when a woman has dramatic change in her physical size by weight loss or gain. The closet full of clothes the fit but do not mesh creates loss of control in managing the wardrobe. (This last event can be managed simply by curating the closet at least twice a year-when you try to build outfits with your garments, you spot the holes right away).

Fortunately, most of us are familiar with the 1980's "dress for success" mania advocated by noted authorities such as Leah Feldon, and later by Nancy Nix-Rice and other stylists whose names and classes I have long forgotten.  Each of these theories advocate a method of creating a series of "mix and match garments that will cover all the roles of your life (BTW, "Does this make me look Fat" by Leah Feldon is one of the best style books I have ever read).

As usual, I do not agree with everything they say, or rather I believe they have left out important points, but the idea of creating "closet capsules" or core garments for a wardrobe I believe to be essential.  The philosophy of choosing one or two core flattering neutral colors and  one or two accent colors in which you choose garments with the most flattering design elements that mix and match with each other is practical, stylish, and versatile IF our stylinista uses a little imagination.  (another mouthful).

For example, my base "core" neutrals are  black and gray.  My core accent colors are plum and winter white.  Because I have spent literally years refining this core wardrobe, I virtually have many, many presentations of fashion styles that I can use with accessories to create almost any look I like with a minimum of expense or work.  It virtually guarantees that I have an appropriate "costume" for any event at a moments notice.  It also assures me I can dress for the day, the week-end or a two week vacation with little effort. (we will do another post later as to how you make this happen-for now, you can check out Rockmyrunwaay.blogspot.com for my holiday capsule and you will get the idea right away)

How does this work?  I literally started with a pencil skirt,a tailored pair of trousers, a pair of flats, blazer jacket, a white shirt, a cashmere sweater, and a purse, all in black.  (in those days and still in some store such as Brooks Brothers, etc., you could buy matching separates.)  Over the years I have added additional styles of pants, shirts, sweaters, shoes and accessories, jackets, coats, etc. all in my core colors that are "keepers" meant to last as long as they remain in good condition (or I do!)  I make sure when I add another style of garments such as a skirt to my core, it is a different shape than one I already have. For instance, I have a grey pencil skirt, a flared skirt, and an a-line skirt.  No matter which style of garment is in fashion, I can coordinate to have the current fashion style just by using existing accessories worn in a different way.  Another example is my gray sweaters.  I have a turtleneck, a jewel neck, a cable knit, a polo neck, and a v-neck sweater; this season the turtleneck or cable is worn every week and my "look" appears more fresh than if I was wearing the V-neck.  I have had the same sweaters for years, but the V-neck is getting a rest this season. 

Over the years I have expanded the shades of grey to slate, medium, and pearl gray, and created a mini core of plum, winter white, navy, chocolate brown, and hunter green. (I like variety) Any stand alone color I buy must coordinate with these base colors and any print must work with the shades in the wardrobe. Almost all garments in stand alone colors such as red, camel, teal, etc. that you see me wear have been purchased inexpensively as a disposable garment and is usually some "faddish" blouse or top that blends with a uniform bottom with a matching over layer.  This method allows me to keep my look fresh but very versatile.  Any real expense is limited to "keeper" garments in core colors that all coordinate with each other. (My basic rule, a keeper garment must work with at least three other garments I already have)  Having learned the hard way, I never buy an expensive stand alone garment; i.e., the expensive red leather jacket I love, have had for at least 20 years, and will never pay for itself. I do, however, make sure that I do have some inexpensive garments that will allow me to wear it.

BTW, one reason to consider only neutrals as core colors is the value and tone of colors are difficult to match attractively and are hard to find (if at all possible). It is almost impossible to make a viable core using color unless you use the darkest shades, such as hunter green, plum, or navy which have now been accepted as neutrals.

The biggest mistake I have found with the early styling gurus was in the mix/match arena for creating an outfit.  If you remember our articles on design elements and body shapes, some mix/match combinations are simply not flattering to all.  For an example, lets use  a typical core of a black jacket, black skirt, black blouse, a black and white printed blouse, and a skirt of the same black and white print.  Every stylist that I have read so far says you now can make at least four combinations out of this capsule; black blouse and jacket with black skirt, black jacket with black blouse with printed skirt, black jacket ,black skirt with printed blouse, and black jacket, printed blouse with printed skirt.  The only problem is body shape.  Many women with a triangle shape would not be flattered by the black jacket, black blouse, and printed white and black skirt.  

Creating capsules takes thought, however, they are wonderful for organizing a practical, versatile, and effective wardrobe that is rather easy to manage if one keeps the basic principles in mind. One needs to coordinate colors, choose flattering styles and colors, make sure that all additions to the capsule work with each other, and be rigid about adding stand alone garments that were "good buys".  Using accessories and disposable trendy items (if any), and purging seasonally will keep the closet organized.

Each stylinista has her own budget and choice as to how quickly or how many costumes she wants will decide how extensive a core she desires.  For me, I invest most of my clothing budget in core items.  This year I added an expensive pair of grey riding style boots to my closet.  I consider these forever garments and worth the expense. I will not add an expensive item that does not work with my core colors. I budget a dollar per wearing for any thing I buy.  I consider how often I will wear it or them before I make the purchase.  Because gray is my main core color, I am quite sure the boots will pay for themselves.  Grass green (one of next season's fashion colors) would not pay for themselves even at half price. Those I might buy at a thrift shop if I planned on wearing that color at all. (I do usually use a bit of a trendy color each season to "pop" the neutrals and freshen the look. Personally, I would not spend more than about $14.00 for that type of shoe; hence, the thrift shop or Payless Shoe Source where I might find them on sale.

Speaking of trendy purchases; look what I found for this coming spring/summer. (excuse the messy hair, I obviously messed it up when I put on the sweater for the picture.    I wanted a overblouse type garment with a statement  anchor for the nautical casual look,                     (
rockmyrunwaay.blogspot.com , post "Natty Nauticals") I found this cotton knit sweater for under $10.00.  My entire look for this fashion season is complete, and it coordinates with several outfits I can pull together using core garments in my closet. (BTW, this week is a great time to find high quality shoes at stores such as DSW).


My next post will be on make-up and hair fashion suitable for our roles in "Lifestyle".


...until next time...............Geneva...........Rockmyages@aol.com.........





Monday, January 11, 2016

Mature Fashion: Replenishing the wardrobe

Thrift shopping day with wish list


More Happy New year........

Here is where knowledge of design principles and upcoming fashion trends can really save the stylinista a bundle of money.  When we know what trends, fashion styles, and fads are on the horizon, we can shop ahead of the curve and get the effects we want for a lot less money.  For instance, I have known for several weeks what trends and fashion designs would be appearing in the stores and the fashion magazines after Christmas. (this is why most of my style book inspiration is taken from runway shows which happen much earlier, not the fashion magazines which are showing what is in the stores).  

I already had an idea what looks I wanted to supplement my existing wardrobe (Remember, I already shopped my closet and made note of the re-imagined outfits I already had on hand). Me, my credit cards, and a little cash began to troll the local thrift shops.  I always go to the thrift store(s) as soon as I know what pieces I want to add to my closet. Because I will probably wear the trendy items on my list only a few times during the season, I do not want to spend very much money on them.  Should I re-imagine or re-interpret the garment, it would most likely extend only one or two seasons. (On "Rockmyrunwaay.blogspot.com" I showed my "Natty Nauticals" look with the pieces I found for a total of only $16.00).  

An example was anchors as a design element: I knew anchors would be a fashion item in fabrics, jewelry, and other accessories several months ago. (I posted some "heads up" on these items weeks ago).  Because I wanted to add  this element to the nautical trendy theme, I have been able to pick up a few pieces I wanted that I could not find at the thrift shops. Hopefully, I can find what I want at an attractive price point. When I cannot complete the looks I want from my closet or the thrift shops, I then proceed to my next step.

Me (I) my cards then check out the clearance section of trendy low end fashion stores to find any inexpensive items that would work with my better clothing to get the looks I wanted. (Ross, Marshalls, Target, Wal-Mart, and TJ Maxx are my favorite standbys).  I can usually find something in the $20.00 or less range to complete my looks. I won't pay much more than that for a garment I do not expect to wear more than the dollars I pay for it. (that is my budgeting criteria).

Should I be replacing a quality garment from my existing closet items, (i.e., a linen or wool neutral pair of pants that is too worn to keep) I would keep an eye out at the thrift stores to locate a treasure.  Very often I have been pleasantly surprised!  If I have not found it there, I will go to the consignment stores.  It is not unusual to find  a garment that cost in the 1K range at a consignment store for less than $300.00; sometimes as little as $50.00. 

If I cannot find what I need in the "gently used-pre-owned" shops, then I go to the higher priced fashion retail stores for my item. Depending upon what I am looking for, I may or may not wait for a sale.  If I need it in my wardrobe I do not want to lose out by waiting too long to purchase a needed item.  I am not afraid to pay several hundred dollars if necessary for the quality item.  At $1.00 per wearing, a pair of black wool pants might easily cost $200.00.  I would easily wear that garment at least 200 times before I would have to replace it, providing my weight didn't change significantly or it suffer an accident.  This logic almost always holds true for a good purse, belt, and classic pair of shoes (classic, not trendy). It always holds true for basic  14K+  gold and 925 silver  jewelry.  

Don't forget craft and fabric stores in your quest. One item I found was a gauzy neck scarf in navy blue with cream anchors purchased at Hobby Lobby for about $8.00; another was an overblouse  in a gauzy denim blue that I was able to find at a trendy shop for about $10.00.

Basically, those are the steps to keeping the Play of Life fashion wardrobe current. on a budget.  Obviously, this series of steps on acquiring garments assumes you already have a closet of clothing that you regularly curate.  The price point and amount a fashionista (stylinista) wants to invest in her garments is personal.  Future blogs will deal with how to acquire a new wardrobe for those who have drastic life changes, (weight loss, career change, etc.)  I began with the replenishing because most of us have only a few garments that need replenishing or re-imagining to keep fashionable.  In both cases, I will address other budget trimming ways to maintain a wardrobe. 

Most of us know this time of year is an excellent time to find those cashmere sweaters, great blazers, etc.  Thrift shops have significant donations for year end tax write-offs, store have end of season sales where we can find marked down merchandise cannot be found other times of year because of holiday purchases, etc.  (Have you ever tried to find a cashmere sweater at the end of February? a swimsuit in July?)

Happy shopping...............Geneva................Rockmyages@aol.com
  
 i

Wednesday, January 6, 2016

Mature Fashion: Designing the Wardrobe Phase II

Combined Teal & Grey uniforms with grey accessories
Hello, again, Stylinistas'; 

In the last post we reviewed and revisited the initial steps in "curating the closet" for a new fashion season.  Those steps were the quantifying and defining of the clothes we needed for the roles in our lifestyle and removing any closet clutter that may reside from last season (believe me, there is always something). The third step in the process is determining what garments are available for planning and designing the costumes for our roles. It is assumed that those garments already match our personal fashion personality (romantic, dramatic, sporty, country, whatever). Hopefully, we will also know what garments we will need to replace any necessary garments that were no longer serviceable or lacking and created a "needs" list. (Don't forget to make any alterations or repairs to existing garments). It also assumes that all garments left in the closet are ready to be worn.

A stylinista must have an idea of the fashion looks she wants to create for the new season.  Ideally, she has created a style book based on pictures from fashion magazines, fashion store windows, street style, etc. or has mental images of what looks she wants to develop (style book will be more effective, trust me on this!) that she can refer to when "shopping her closet". ( I usually have the book with me when I am trying to mix and match for combinations I can make with what I already have. it is a great feeling to create authentic personal style by pulling together garments and accessories that I already have!). I keep a note pad of these combinations for future reference and to remember what the combinations were so I can take pictures of the ensemble for my stylebook).  You do not have to take pictures, you can just make a chart of what garments you have matched to make your look. ( I find taking a picture with my smart phone is faster initially, but the uploading, printing, cutting and pasting takes a lot more time). 

One word of caution in designing combinations of garments; it is imperative to take your body type into consideration when making these matches.  Several style articles talk about having "30 days worth of Outfits", etc.  That may be true for a clothes model, however, most of us have body types and design considerations that must be taken into account to flatter our figure.  Every figure does not look good in the same combinations.  For example, I might have a bold white and black horizontal striped short sleeved tee that could be combined with a pencil black linen skirt; that combination would make my body more top heavy than it already is!  I would never wear that unless I could reduce the look of the wide top, maybe with a black silk 3/4 length sleeve sweater. My caution is to remind you that you may be able to wear a certain combination of clothing, but should you?  If you decide you should not, obviously, you cannot count this as an outfit.

After we have shopped our individual closets and made our lists of the items we need to replace, we will undoubtedly discover that we need to purchase two or three items to develop our desired looks. To make the most of our clothing budget, we need to evaluate our intended purchases; We evaluate the needs and wants based on how much money we have budgeted for our update. (a science in itself).  If they are classic garments or additions that you will wear for many years or seasons (the perfect LBD, new jeans, a classic pair of pants or skirt, etc.) plan to budget accordingly.  If it is a fad or "trendy" item, budget accordingly. Personally, I budget $1.00 per wearing.  You will be amazed how well this strategy  has served me.  I take this step before I leave my house to shop. Of course, each fashionista has her own sense of what she wants to spend per wearing; the principle is a budget conscious fashionista will evaluate the cost per wearing before making the purchase. (saves a lot of buyer's remorse-been there, done that!)

I don't like to wear exactly the same outfit more than three or four times a season.  I estimate any trendy garment that I buy is likely to be "in style" for about three years, give or take a bit; a "fad" may not last one season.  Basic math says I can spend about $9.00 to $16.00 and get my money's worth out of a trendy garment; less if it is a fad.  Naturally, many of these garments can be combined into more than one outfit and I adjust my anticipated spending accordingly but it gives me a baseline of spending.  For example, a couple of years ago, transparent blouses with heavily embellished collars of crystals, etc. were in retail stores for about $40.00 per blouse.  No way was I going to wear such a blouse 40 times so I bypassed that adorable blouse for a similar but much less expensive garment. 

In the next post we will discuss how you can effectively purchase your looks within the budgeted price point.

Happy Stylin'.............Geneva..............Rockmyages@aol.com





Friday, January 1, 2016

Mature Fashion: Designing your wardrobe: Phase I

Gray Uniform-White leopard vest and scarf

Hello Fashionistas & Stylinistas;

Happy New Year!  and  as with many things, the new year is time to make some changes.  Fortunately, this is also the time of year we begin to prepare our closets for the Spring/Summer merchandise already appearing in the stores.  It is also the time to take advantage  of the sales available for Fall/Winter merchandise that we can supplement or replace items for  Fall/Winter now or for 2016.

Back in October we discussed the three steps necessary to design a functional wardrobe for our roles in the play of life.  Let's review for a minute the essential steps as the time of year is approaching for us to take another look at our wardrobe and "curate the closet".

The first step is to quantify the garments one would need for the special roles in one's lifestyle.  Even though our stylinista may have already done this during the autumn review, she may need to re-evaluate her needs; the roles in her lifestyle may have changed.  She may have retired at the end of the year or decided to return to work; she may have changed jobs, moved to a different climate, changed her situation in life through empty nest syndrome, divorce or death of a spouse.  She may have lost or gained significant weight.  Any or all of these situations will probably require a complete analysis of her current wardrobe and  a breakdown by percentage of how many and what kinds of garments she will need for her new roles. (i.e., 25% clothing suitable for office work, 25% for home activities and chores,15% for volunteer work at animal shelter, 15% for social activities both day and evening, 20% for vacation attire and exercise, etc) Each woman defines the roles, the percentage of her life in those roles, and the amounts of garments necessary for the roles. 

The second step in designing a functional wardrobe is eliminating all garments that do not belong. If it is no longer fit to be worn, no matter how much she may love it, she needs to get rid of it (or have a new one made).  If it does not fit nor can be reasonably altered, it needs to be taken out of  closet!  I always have two piles for things that no longer fit; (our figures DO change).   If it can be easily adjusted for little expense, put it aside to be altered.  If it cannot, it goes in a bag for disposal. (If you "plan to lose weight", put it a box, store it away, but do not leave it in the closet.  If you have not lost it by next season, consider getting rid of it).  It is important she actually try one the garments to assure herself they still fit properly and fit into her wardrobe.

Now that the closet contains only the items that are immediately wearable, a stylinista can evaluate what she has and what she needs.  By now she will know what  fashion trends are continuing for Spring/Summer 2016 and what fashion styles are now beginning to appear in the stores and fashion magazines.  She can mix, match, combine different combinations of styles that appeal to her aesthetic (I suggest pushing the envelope a bit with something not tried before; to try for a few fresh approaches to the aesthetic based on the new fashions). She will also know if she is tired of a "fad" fashion item and wants to dispose of the garment. 

The size of a fashionistas wardrobe should be proportionate to the space she has in which to store the garments and her budget. There is no "right" amount except her ability to manage the wardrobe within the space she has available. The wardrobe should be in the general style that reflects her style choices (classic, romantic,etc.).  It should be cohesive,(fit in with garments she already has or plans on purchasing) and in a color scheme that is harmonious with garments she already has, is appropriate for the roles in her life, and ideally,  be interchangeable with basic items that have the ability to transform from one role to another. Bottom line; a cohesive wardrobe works together.

Once these steps are taken, our stylinista can begin  planning her wardrobe for the upcoming season(s).  In our next post we will define the remaining steps (at least in mine) to the planning process.

If you have not completed steps 1 and 2, I sincerely hope you will do so before going on to the next steps..

.........................Geneva..................Rockmyages@aol.com