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| Look what I found..... |
Welcome all Stylinistas;
In previous posts we have discussed defining and quantifying the types of garments a woman needs for the various roles in her life.
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Today's post is all about the actual selecting and choosing the core items for a working wardrobe that suit our roles and flatter our physical person and expresses our authentic personal style. (that's a mouthful!).
Extreme wardrobe changes usually happen when a significant life event occurs or the closet becomes so cluttered with " good buy sale items" that it becomes so fragmented a woman has a closet of clothes but nothing to wear because the items are not coordinated.
The significant life events usually are when a young woman is beginning a career or when older and she is re-entering the job market. Another significant event is when a woman has dramatic change in her physical size by weight loss or gain. The closet full of clothes the fit but do not mesh creates loss of control in managing the wardrobe. (This last event can be managed simply by curating the closet at least twice a year-when you try to build outfits with your garments, you spot the holes right away).
Fortunately, most of us are familiar with the 1980's "dress for success" mania advocated by noted authorities such as Leah Feldon, and later by Nancy Nix-Rice and other stylists whose names and classes I have long forgotten. Each of these theories advocate a method of creating a series of "mix and match garments that will cover all the roles of your life (BTW, "Does this make me look Fat" by Leah Feldon is one of the best style books I have ever read).
As usual, I do not agree with everything they say, or rather I believe they have left out important points, but the idea of creating "closet capsules" or core garments for a wardrobe I believe to be essential. The philosophy of choosing one or two core flattering neutral colors and one or two accent colors in which you choose garments with the most flattering design elements that mix and match with each other is practical, stylish, and versatile IF our stylinista uses a little imagination. (another mouthful).
For example, my base "core" neutrals are black and gray. My core accent colors are plum and winter white. Because I have spent literally years refining this core wardrobe, I virtually have many, many presentations of fashion styles that I can use with accessories to create almost any look I like with a minimum of expense or work. It virtually guarantees that I have an appropriate "costume" for any event at a moments notice. It also assures me I can dress for the day, the week-end or a two week vacation with little effort. (we will do another post later as to how you make this happen-for now, you can check out Rockmyrunwaay.blogspot.com for my holiday capsule and you will get the idea right away)
How does this work? I literally started with a pencil skirt,a tailored pair of trousers, a pair of flats, blazer jacket, a white shirt, a cashmere sweater, and a purse, all in black. (in those days and still in some store such as Brooks Brothers, etc., you could buy matching separates.) Over the years I have added additional styles of pants, shirts, sweaters, shoes and accessories, jackets, coats, etc. all in my core colors that are "keepers" meant to last as long as they remain in good condition (or I do!) I make sure when I add another style of garments such as a skirt to my core, it is a different shape than one I already have. For instance, I have a grey pencil skirt, a flared skirt, and an a-line skirt. No matter which style of garment is in fashion, I can coordinate to have the current fashion style just by using existing accessories worn in a different way. Another example is my gray sweaters. I have a turtleneck, a jewel neck, a cable knit, a polo neck, and a v-neck sweater; this season the turtleneck or cable is worn every week and my "look" appears more fresh than if I was wearing the V-neck. I have had the same sweaters for years, but the V-neck is getting a rest this season.
Over the years I have expanded the shades of grey to slate, medium, and pearl gray, and created a mini core of plum, winter white, navy, chocolate brown, and hunter green. (I like variety) Any stand alone color I buy must coordinate with these base colors and any print must work with the shades in the wardrobe. Almost all garments in stand alone colors such as red, camel, teal, etc. that you see me wear have been purchased inexpensively as a disposable garment and is usually some "faddish" blouse or top that blends with a uniform bottom with a matching over layer. This method allows me to keep my look fresh but very versatile. Any real expense is limited to "keeper" garments in core colors that all coordinate with each other. (My basic rule, a keeper garment must work with at least three other garments I already have) Having learned the hard way, I never buy an expensive stand alone garment; i.e., the expensive red leather jacket I love, have had for at least 20 years, and will never pay for itself. I do, however, make sure that I do have some inexpensive garments that will allow me to wear it.
BTW, one reason to consider only neutrals as core colors is the value and tone of colors are difficult to match attractively and are hard to find (if at all possible). It is almost impossible to make a viable core using color unless you use the darkest shades, such as hunter green, plum, or navy which have now been accepted as neutrals.
The biggest mistake I have found with the early styling gurus was in the mix/match arena for creating an outfit. If you remember our articles on design elements and body shapes, some mix/match combinations are simply not flattering to all. For an example, lets use a typical core of a black jacket, black skirt, black blouse, a black and white printed blouse, and a skirt of the same black and white print. Every stylist that I have read so far says you now can make at least four combinations out of this capsule; black blouse and jacket with black skirt, black jacket with black blouse with printed skirt, black jacket ,black skirt with printed blouse, and black jacket, printed blouse with printed skirt. The only problem is body shape. Many women with a triangle shape would not be flattered by the black jacket, black blouse, and printed white and black skirt.
Creating capsules takes thought, however, they are wonderful for organizing a practical, versatile, and effective wardrobe that is rather easy to manage if one keeps the basic principles in mind. One needs to coordinate colors, choose flattering styles and colors, make sure that all additions to the capsule work with each other, and be rigid about adding stand alone garments that were "good buys". Using accessories and disposable trendy items (if any), and purging seasonally will keep the closet organized.
Each stylinista has her own budget and choice as to how quickly or how many costumes she wants will decide how extensive a core she desires. For me, I invest most of my clothing budget in core items. This year I added an expensive pair of grey riding style boots to my closet. I consider these forever garments and worth the expense. I will not add an expensive item that does not work with my core colors. I budget a dollar per wearing for any thing I buy. I consider how often I will wear it or them before I make the purchase. Because gray is my main core color, I am quite sure the boots will pay for themselves. Grass green (one of next season's fashion colors) would not pay for themselves even at half price. Those I might buy at a thrift shop if I planned on wearing that color at all. (I do usually use a bit of a trendy color each season to "pop" the neutrals and freshen the look. Personally, I would not spend more than about $14.00 for that type of shoe; hence, the thrift shop or Payless Shoe Source where I might find them on sale.
Speaking of trendy purchases; look what I found for this coming spring/summer. (excuse the messy hair, I obviously messed it up when I put on the sweater for the picture. I wanted a overblouse type garment with a statement anchor for the nautical casual look, (
rockmyrunwaay.blogspot.com , post "Natty Nauticals") I found this cotton knit sweater for under $10.00. My entire look for this fashion season is complete, and it coordinates with several outfits I can pull together using core garments in my closet. (BTW, this week is a great time to find high quality shoes at stores such as DSW).
My next post will be on make-up and hair fashion suitable for our roles in "Lifestyle".
...until next time...............Geneva...........Rockmyages@aol.com.........
Extreme wardrobe changes usually happen when a significant life event occurs or the closet becomes so cluttered with " good buy sale items" that it becomes so fragmented a woman has a closet of clothes but nothing to wear because the items are not coordinated.
The significant life events usually are when a young woman is beginning a career or when older and she is re-entering the job market. Another significant event is when a woman has dramatic change in her physical size by weight loss or gain. The closet full of clothes the fit but do not mesh creates loss of control in managing the wardrobe. (This last event can be managed simply by curating the closet at least twice a year-when you try to build outfits with your garments, you spot the holes right away).
Fortunately, most of us are familiar with the 1980's "dress for success" mania advocated by noted authorities such as Leah Feldon, and later by Nancy Nix-Rice and other stylists whose names and classes I have long forgotten. Each of these theories advocate a method of creating a series of "mix and match garments that will cover all the roles of your life (BTW, "Does this make me look Fat" by Leah Feldon is one of the best style books I have ever read).
As usual, I do not agree with everything they say, or rather I believe they have left out important points, but the idea of creating "closet capsules" or core garments for a wardrobe I believe to be essential. The philosophy of choosing one or two core flattering neutral colors and one or two accent colors in which you choose garments with the most flattering design elements that mix and match with each other is practical, stylish, and versatile IF our stylinista uses a little imagination. (another mouthful).
For example, my base "core" neutrals are black and gray. My core accent colors are plum and winter white. Because I have spent literally years refining this core wardrobe, I virtually have many, many presentations of fashion styles that I can use with accessories to create almost any look I like with a minimum of expense or work. It virtually guarantees that I have an appropriate "costume" for any event at a moments notice. It also assures me I can dress for the day, the week-end or a two week vacation with little effort. (we will do another post later as to how you make this happen-for now, you can check out Rockmyrunwaay.blogspot.com for my holiday capsule and you will get the idea right away)
How does this work? I literally started with a pencil skirt,a tailored pair of trousers, a pair of flats, blazer jacket, a white shirt, a cashmere sweater, and a purse, all in black. (in those days and still in some store such as Brooks Brothers, etc., you could buy matching separates.) Over the years I have added additional styles of pants, shirts, sweaters, shoes and accessories, jackets, coats, etc. all in my core colors that are "keepers" meant to last as long as they remain in good condition (or I do!) I make sure when I add another style of garments such as a skirt to my core, it is a different shape than one I already have. For instance, I have a grey pencil skirt, a flared skirt, and an a-line skirt. No matter which style of garment is in fashion, I can coordinate to have the current fashion style just by using existing accessories worn in a different way. Another example is my gray sweaters. I have a turtleneck, a jewel neck, a cable knit, a polo neck, and a v-neck sweater; this season the turtleneck or cable is worn every week and my "look" appears more fresh than if I was wearing the V-neck. I have had the same sweaters for years, but the V-neck is getting a rest this season.
Over the years I have expanded the shades of grey to slate, medium, and pearl gray, and created a mini core of plum, winter white, navy, chocolate brown, and hunter green. (I like variety) Any stand alone color I buy must coordinate with these base colors and any print must work with the shades in the wardrobe. Almost all garments in stand alone colors such as red, camel, teal, etc. that you see me wear have been purchased inexpensively as a disposable garment and is usually some "faddish" blouse or top that blends with a uniform bottom with a matching over layer. This method allows me to keep my look fresh but very versatile. Any real expense is limited to "keeper" garments in core colors that all coordinate with each other. (My basic rule, a keeper garment must work with at least three other garments I already have) Having learned the hard way, I never buy an expensive stand alone garment; i.e., the expensive red leather jacket I love, have had for at least 20 years, and will never pay for itself. I do, however, make sure that I do have some inexpensive garments that will allow me to wear it.
BTW, one reason to consider only neutrals as core colors is the value and tone of colors are difficult to match attractively and are hard to find (if at all possible). It is almost impossible to make a viable core using color unless you use the darkest shades, such as hunter green, plum, or navy which have now been accepted as neutrals.
The biggest mistake I have found with the early styling gurus was in the mix/match arena for creating an outfit. If you remember our articles on design elements and body shapes, some mix/match combinations are simply not flattering to all. For an example, lets use a typical core of a black jacket, black skirt, black blouse, a black and white printed blouse, and a skirt of the same black and white print. Every stylist that I have read so far says you now can make at least four combinations out of this capsule; black blouse and jacket with black skirt, black jacket with black blouse with printed skirt, black jacket ,black skirt with printed blouse, and black jacket, printed blouse with printed skirt. The only problem is body shape. Many women with a triangle shape would not be flattered by the black jacket, black blouse, and printed white and black skirt.
Creating capsules takes thought, however, they are wonderful for organizing a practical, versatile, and effective wardrobe that is rather easy to manage if one keeps the basic principles in mind. One needs to coordinate colors, choose flattering styles and colors, make sure that all additions to the capsule work with each other, and be rigid about adding stand alone garments that were "good buys". Using accessories and disposable trendy items (if any), and purging seasonally will keep the closet organized.
Each stylinista has her own budget and choice as to how quickly or how many costumes she wants will decide how extensive a core she desires. For me, I invest most of my clothing budget in core items. This year I added an expensive pair of grey riding style boots to my closet. I consider these forever garments and worth the expense. I will not add an expensive item that does not work with my core colors. I budget a dollar per wearing for any thing I buy. I consider how often I will wear it or them before I make the purchase. Because gray is my main core color, I am quite sure the boots will pay for themselves. Grass green (one of next season's fashion colors) would not pay for themselves even at half price. Those I might buy at a thrift shop if I planned on wearing that color at all. (I do usually use a bit of a trendy color each season to "pop" the neutrals and freshen the look. Personally, I would not spend more than about $14.00 for that type of shoe; hence, the thrift shop or Payless Shoe Source where I might find them on sale.
Speaking of trendy purchases; look what I found for this coming spring/summer. (excuse the messy hair, I obviously messed it up when I put on the sweater for the picture. I wanted a overblouse type garment with a statement anchor for the nautical casual look, (
rockmyrunwaay.blogspot.com , post "Natty Nauticals") I found this cotton knit sweater for under $10.00. My entire look for this fashion season is complete, and it coordinates with several outfits I can pull together using core garments in my closet. (BTW, this week is a great time to find high quality shoes at stores such as DSW).
My next post will be on make-up and hair fashion suitable for our roles in "Lifestyle".
...until next time...............Geneva...........Rockmyages@aol.com.........
Love finding a "keeper" and I think the sweater fits in nicely (especially at that price).��
ReplyDeleteDear Tonya, Thanks for your interest in the post; actually this anchor sweater is only a keeper for my 2016 S/S nautical fashion style. It is of good quality but is a bit too trendy for my life long keeper file. It is exactly why I try to discover the fashion trends way ahead of the season it will be worn; this search enabled me to find the garment for that price at a Goodwill Thrift store for a fraction of the price I would be paying at a fashionable retail or boutique. This theme is entering those stores as we speak. I say something similar (it had the captains wheel) for over $50.00. I would not pay that. On my budgeted amount of $1.00 per wearing, I would have to wear it at least 50 times. I mentioned once before that I only plan on any trendy garment being viable for no more than three years, give or take. I am not likely to wear it that many times, but I am absolutely sure I will wear it at least 10!! This concept really does work for me. Once again, thanks for your interest.
DeleteReally good article. I like the capsule concept!
ReplyDeleteDear Val; The capsule concept really does work! I discovered it almost 50 years ago. An actress by the name of Arlene Dahl described her struggles as a young actress in Hollywood; her need to make a good impression on a very limited budget but having to rub elbows with people who were on top of the fashion game and who had much more money. I will never forget her advice of having a pure silk blouse, silk skirt, and a cashmere sweater that could be "dressed up" for formal occasions. I have followed that principle all my life and have never been sorry; of course, I learned to do so the hard way (not following her advice). This concept is also one reason I strongly object to those stylists that continually advise persons to rid their closet of anything not worn in a year (I sometimes wonder if they are subsidized by the fashion industry) I always keep my quality garments and shoes as long as they still fit or are in good condition (High quality materials last forever). One fairly recent mistake I made along those lines was ridding my closet of an expensive and elegant pair of riding boots during the 1990's (I had not worn them for a couple of years) They were very expensive when bought. I held onto them for a few years but succumbed to stylists who kept advising not keeping things too long in the closet. Well, we both know how desirable it would have been to have kept them; I replaced them three years ago at about the same price I paid for the first ones.(same price, lower quality). I have not made that mistake more than once! BTW, the advice given for getting rid of an old item is that the style will not be the same and/or it will not look the same. I take exception to that advice because classic cut does NOT go out of style if the cut is truly classic; my boots of today look almost exactly like the ones I had; a loss of several hundred dollars!! Thanks for following my blog; I hope it is helpful.
DeleteReally good article. I like the capsule concept!
ReplyDeleteDuplicate comment....
ReplyDeleteI also love the capsule concept. Mine fore two reasons, lack of funds and space.
ReplyDeleteThanks you; Both of your reasons are also the most common. The third reason that many women like them is the contribution to "effortless dressing" If she knows that everything in her closet goes with everything else, she literally can pull an ensemble together in nothing flat. (This can also be true for "uniform" dressing which we will address in a future post). Another advantage is the certainty of having something appropriate to wear for every occasion; especially when traveling and unexpected situations occur. It is also much easier to plan and budget additions to the wardrobe. Don't forget to establish your core pieces in garments with perfect fit, with outside lines and clean classic inside detail lines that flatter your body type. If you do this, those garments will always be in fashion when accessorized or re-imagined in stylish new ways.
Delete